Day 279 on the Monterey Peninsula
Wild Goose Cafe, Carmel Valley

I'm packed and ready to go, and spending today saying good-bye and resting up for the road ahead that will lead me to Las Vegas. I'll be leaving in the morning, after exactly 280 days on the Monterey Peninsula. I'm sure I'll be back some day. The area is just too beautiful to ignore.

The beach at Carmel is among the most amazing sites in the country. Ed Weston and Ansel Adams lived here, as did hundreds of other artists and photographers caught up in the sheer beauty of the ragged coast and mountains. As an artist colony settled after the San Francisco fire at the turn of the last century, Carmel has now become a tourist destination for art lovers and beach-walkers. Of course Monterey is only a couple of miles from Carmel and is home to Fisherman's Wharf and Cannery Row. I love the area, but would have been more happy had I lived here in the early days when the peninsula was first being settled. Commercialization, over population, traffic, tourism, a state government gone wild burdening its citizens with taxes and restrictions, and a sense that an underlying class warfare is waging beneath the surface of paradise has made me long for simpler times.

The cost of housing and food is so severe, that the workers who support the economy of the Peninsula can 't afford to live there. Most laborers and medium-wage workers must drive or bus miles into the area in order to work. With most modest housing starting at $900 a month or more for a small apartment, no one making $10 an hour can afford to live within 15 miles of this paradise.

With all its beauty and offer of a wonderful lifestyle, Carmel and Monterey remains basically off limits to middle America.

I suppose it's the same across the country as the shrinking middle class gives way to the two-prong system of the Haves and the Have-nots. The widening of the classes between the rich and poor is becoming more pronounced. When a new resale shop opened near my studio I was amused at the name for the new business: "Rich Man, Poor Man." That pretty well sums it up. Resale shops are doing bang-up business during this economic crisis as middle America discovers how poor they are. The rich, of course, keep getting richer. They have their buyouts and government subsidies.

So it appears Paradise will remain the home of the rich. Middle America will discover there is no middle, only those who have money and those who do not.

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Speaking of the "Haves", it seems Facebook is having a wonderful year. They claim to have 200 million users now, doubling its userbase in the last seven months. Speculation is rampant about an IPO coming soon, perhaps by summer. But Mark Zuckerberg has stated "not so fast." Zuckerberg began Facebook in his college dorm and is another billionaire trying to figure out what to do with a company growing too fast. With 800 current employees, the Palo Alto juggernaut's worst case scenario is to be gobbled up by another company like Google for a few billion dollars. If I were Zuckerberg, I'd cash out and buy a house in Carmel.

Leaving the Village

I'm at the Starbucks in the Del Monte Center, Monterey, saying good-bye. I've spent a lot of time here over the last nine months. It's crowded as ever, being a Saturday. The weather is prime, just right, and people are enjoying sunning themselves as they walk their dogs and children along the outdoor retail shops. Seagulls land here and there, reminding me I'm near the ocean.

I'll miss the Monterey Peninsula's beauty and wonderful weather. But it's time for me to move on. The road is calling me back like an old friend. I'll travel to Las Vegas next week.

I travel light, so packing is really no big deal. I usually purchase what I need when staying in a place for more than a week or two. The nine months I've spent here is the longest period of time I've stayed in any one place. I've got art supplies and a few odds and ends I'll keep, but most of the junk I've collected threw the winter I'm donating to Goodwill.

The photo at left was taken just before I began packing. My small art studio served me just fine, though there were some drawbacks. Occasionally a rock band renting space down the hall would rehearse and drive me nuts. And once a week the cook in the market located downstairs would smoke meats out in the alley outside my window, blowing smoke into my office. But for the most part it was a pleasant nine months of concentrating on my art and my writing.

I'm sitting at the Starbucks in the Del Monte Center watching a steady stream of latte drinkers basking in the glow of all the goodies in the display counter. This particular Starbucks is among the busiest I've ever seen. And I've seen a lot of Starbucks locations around the Southwest (see the sidebar at left). Whenever I have visited this location it's always been busy.

It's easy to get a glimpse of the people of Monterey County at the Del Monte Center, particularly here at the Starbucks. In line I see military personnel (probably from the post-graduate naval academy), young children hanging on young moms out for a day of shopping, elderly women with books in hand (mystery novels seem to be popular with them), Asians, Mexicans, mostly Caucasions, and very few Blacks. Three young men in blue jeans are busy typing away at laptop computers at various tables around the room (me, too, but I'm no longer young). Tourists are in town today. You can spot them right away by the new cameras hanging around their necks. By my calculation, today's most popular customer at Starbucks is a young woman, perhaps between 20 and 40 years old. At the risk of sounding sexists, my guess is most men are at work. Thus the only men I see are elderly, working on Suduko or Crossword puzzles, and a few young ones working online.

Outisde the window I see the many tables and chairs available for patio-dwellers. This area of the Del Monte Center has restaurants and fast food places, though you will not see a McDonald's or Burger King. Chipolte's and Chinese Express are directly across from the Starbucks, and a Subway Sandwich and pizza joint are nearby. Most of the lunching crowd sits outside. Monterey has one of the best year-round climates in the country.

The locals refer to this place as a mall, and I suppose it is. It's really an outdoor mall, since entrances to the retail stores and eateries are all outside. Since many indoor malls around the country are closing due to the economic crisis, maybe outdoor malls will survive. I would think an outdoor mall saves a fortune in utility costs, air conditioning and heating provided by Nature.

Day 66 on the Monterey Peninsula
Carmel Coffee Roasting Co.

On Saturday of Labor Day weekend I spent the day on the Peninsula. I started out at the Del Monte Shopping Center for lunch and to listen to some jazz music. Each weekend for a few weeks, a jazz concert will be held there. It was a little cool, but the sun finally broke out and it turned into a beautiful day.

After lunch I drove to Fisherman's Wharf and attended the Monterey Greek Festival. I also walked around the dock and spent some time at the Portola Plaza.

Below are some photos I took during the day.

This guy looks like a politician. Actually, he (she?) is one of "George's Birds." George is a regular at Fisherman's Wharf, along with his birds.

Greek dancing at the Monterey Greek Festival. Zorba never looked so good.

The crowd at the Greek Festival enjoying Greek food.

Whale Watching cruises are popular at the Wharf. I like the wooden fisherman who looks rather sad. I guess the fish aren't biting.

I guess they missed the sign...it says "no parking".

4th of July at Fisherman's Wharf

Day 5 on the Monterey Peninsula
Wild Goose Cafe, Carmel Valley

The picture at right was taken yesterday while I was strolling down the boardwalk at the Fisherman's Wharf in Monterey. It was quite a spectacle as thousands gathered to enjoy the 4th of July.

Fireworks were scheduled for later on, but I decided to leave early. The crowds were enormous and I was afraid that it would take me days to get out once the show was over. The fireworks were located on a barge out in the bay, so I'm sure it was a great sight. But I was glad to leave while the traffic was still semi-navigable.

Below are some more photos and a video clip.

Cannery Row at Monterey Bay, Part 2

Cannery Row at Monterey Bay

Fisherman's Wharf at Monterey Bay, Part 2

Fisherman's Wharf at Monterey Bay